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MOUNT KELIMUTU LAKES
" Myth of Kelimutu"
" Place. A big
thunderstorm came and built three lakes: the first one, where the
nuts and the gold have been burried, was red; a blue one was on the
place where Meja and Konde had stood (Lake of Youth); at the place
of the king with the three grand children was the thrid lake (Lake
of Ancestors).
Since these days, the natives believe, that, when a human being dies
and has only done good things, he will find the eternal peace in the
Lake of Ancestors. But if he was very evil, he will be punished
whith tortures forever in the red lake. Those ones, who have done
both good and evil, will find themselves in the blue lake. As you
can imagine, there is a real rush in this lake - because of that,
depending on the number of your good and evil deeds, you may
increase or decrease. "
Mount
 Kelimutu
with its three colors lakes, in a local language called Kelimutu
Tiwu Telu is one of the main volcanoes in Flores island. After
eruption in 1886 the mount remained three crater lakes with formerly
distinct colors; red, blue and white. The colors, however, have
changed continually since the eruption of Mount Iya in Ende in 1969.
The changes of its colors make Kelimutu different from others and
become one of the attractive places to be seen.
According
 o
the scientists, the changes caused by the geological and chemical
processes in the bottom of the lakes. It could be also resulted from
refraction of the sunlight, the bacteria populations and the
chemicals dissolved in the water.
Kelimutu has been determined as one of the
National Parks with 5300 Hectares large, which is known as Kelimutu
National Park. It sorrounded by forest with the rare floras and
faunas such as palm trees, pine, mountain fig (casuarina yunghuniana),
red wood (pterocarpus sp), edelweiss, hog (sus vitatus), javan
porcupine (hystrix javanica), the giant rat (papagomys armandvellei),
monkey (macaca fascicularis) and gerugiwa (kind of bird). besides
natural conservation, this park is also exploited for tourist
attraction gathers with parks like Leuser National Park, Kerinci,
Komodo, Ujung Kulon and others.
There was a
myth about the mountain. Local inhabitants believe that Kelimutu is
the last place for their spirits resided and given name as Tiwu Ata
Polo (Rek Lake) refers to The Giants, Tiwu Ko’o Fai Nuwa Muri (Blue
Lake), to The Orphans, and Tiwu Ata Bupu (White Lake) to The Old
Men. The spirits would reside on those three lakes conformed to
their social status after passing the gateway called Konde Ratu.
For locals, this mountain is holy, and a
token of God’s blessings, which provides fertility to the
sorrounding lands.
A pheno menon
of three colored lakes of Kelimutu has become one of Flores’ main
natural tourist destinations. The spectacular view and dramatic
sights on peak of Mount Kelimutu left a deepest impression to all
visitors who come and visit it. When you are at the Inspiration
Point, you can view the natural panorama and beautiful sunrise.
Apart from its cool climate and wonderful panorama, Three Colored
Lakes of Kelimutu keeps special features as the only one of tourist
attractions on earth to visit, to feel and to remind.
East
Nusa Tenggara’s natural wonder and one of Indonesia’a most
mysterious and gramatic sights that can be found on top of this
mountain, some 66 kilometers from Ende, or 83 kilometers from
Maumere. It has a unique and spectacular view on its three crater
lakes with their respective colours. The colours, however, have
changed continually since the eruption of Mount Iya in Ende in 1969.
The surrounding village are good places serving as bases for visits
to Kelimutu, particulary those who wish to have a more leisurely
pace and enjoy the views along the road between Ende and Maumere, or
spend more time in Kelimutu. Those little villages are also known
for their excellent weaving-all hand-made, still using natural dyes.
The village
 of
MONI is set out along the length of the road that runs
from Ende, northeast to Maumere. It's full of losmen and
restaurants, but is still a relaxed place to spend a few days,
with great walking in the surrounding hills. Behind the Amina
Moe losmen and opposite the market is a rumah adat ,
where occasional evening dance performances are held (Rp3000)
and traders hang around trying to sell ikat. There is no bank,
post office or Telkom in Moni.
The sum mit
of Keli Mutu (1620m) is a startling lunar landscape,
with, to the east, two vast pools separated by a narrow ridge.
The waters of one are a currently luminescent green that seems
to be heading for bright-yellow, the other was, a few years ago,
a vibrant turquoise, and is now deep magenta. A few hundred
metres to the west, in a deep depression, is a pure-black lake.
The colours of the lakes are apparently due to the levels of
certain minerals that dissolve in them. As the waters
erode the caldera they lie in, they uncover bands of different
compounds and, as the levels of these compounds are in constant
flux, so are the colours. In the 1960s, the lakes were red,
white and blue, and locals predict that within years they will
have returned to these hues.
Every
morning at around 4am, an open-sided truck takes
travellers from Moni up to Keli Mutu, returning at about 7am
(Rp10,000 one way, minimum five people, plus Rp1000 park fee).
The best view is from the south crater rim, looking north over
the two sister lakes; the trails that run around other rims are
extremely dangerous - tourists have disappeared up here. A much
nicer alternative to returning with the truck is to walk
back down to Moni, which takes about three hours, with rolling
grassy meadows flanking extinct volcanic hills, and views all
the way to the sea. Practically the whole walk is downhill,
but
always bring water and wear good boots. A shortcut by the PHPA
post cuts off a good 4km from the road route, takes you through
some charming local villages and past the waterfall (
air terjun) less than 1km from central Moni, which is a
great spot for a dip after what can be a very hot walk. A little
further down is a hot spring, the perfect place to soak weary
feet.
Buses from Ende (1hr 30min;
Rp15.000) and Maumere (5hr; Rp20.000) stop here about three times a
day, the first one at about 11am and the last at about 3pm; ask at
the losmen. For such a small isolated village, the cuisine in
Moni is impressive.
Lakes like gemstones
Gunung
Keli Mutu is located in the south of Central Flores, about 40
kilometers northeast of Ende. The volcano consists of three craters,
each filled with a colored lake. The lakes got their color because
of the mineral deposits, which resolve in the water.
Because of the changing amounts of minerals the color of the lakes
changes over time; the last decades the lakes used to be dark-red,
light green and light blue. The bald and grey landscape around the
lakes makes this phenomenon even more spectacular. It's no wonder
that the lakes are sometimes compared with gemstones.
Visit to the lakes
The
 starting
point for the climb of the Keli Mutu is Moni, a village along the
main road from Ende to Maumere. In the 1970's the lakes were only
reachable by foot or by horse. You had to start at two in the
morning; it's a heavy trip which takes about three to four hours to
reach the summit.Only fanatic people do it this way, mainly by
horse, which is a bigger torture than walking when you don't have a
saddle. Take a guide with you; outside the nights with full moon,
chances of getting lost are big.
Nowadays
trucks pick up the 'climbers' around 4 in the morning in Moni. The
trip takes 45 minutes to the summit. The walk back is a lot more fun
after the lakes have been disclosed when the clouds and fog is gone.
You ought to be at the viewpoint around 5.30, the place is an ugly
concrete slab which can be reached via a concrete stairs. It can be
cold there; bring along warm clothes and maybe come warm coffee or
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